Take us back to paradise

Thailand’s Ko Phi Phi Don island offers visitors the best of both worlds

By Mitch Gaynor

WOULD my friend have broken her leg if I hadn’t flown in for an impromptu visit to their island resort in Thailand? Would she and her husband have cancelled their upcoming European holiday, flown back to Australia in a cast, both caught COVID and been hospitalised with near-fatal symptoms? 

Before this, would her husband have lost his wedding ring in the pristine waters of Maya Bay while taking me on a sightseeing tour they’d already been on? Did I unintentionally ruin their year-long international holiday of a lifetime? Probably. But honestly, I’d likely cause the same chaos again if it meant spending time exploring the glorious Phi Phi Islands. 

As a first time traveller to Thailand, I can vouch for how easy it is to get there—just 10 hours, including a quick layover with Singapore Airlines— and how simple it is to get around. Arriving in the early evening in Phuket, we stayed at the budget but stunning Memory at On On in the Old Town. It’s the oldest hotel on the island, and with its colonial Sino-Portuguese architecture, it exudes historical elegance. 

It’s perhaps best known for hosting Leonardo DiCaprio when he was filming The Beach and, in fact, there’s still a picture of him on our bedside table. “Goodnight, Leo!” An early morning taxi to Rassada Pier and you’re bundled into a speedboat for an hour-long trip to Ko Phi Phi Don, the main island of Thailand’s Ko Phi Phi archipelago. 

We glide into the bay between soaring limestone cliffs and over crystal-clear turquoise waters, with the natural beauty only slightly disrupted by the Burger King restaurant greeting us as we disembark. It’s a minor concern, though, and soon we’re in the thick of Thai-style island time. Word on the street is that this is a party island and favourite for backpackers, which is true to a degree. 

There is budget accommodation, bars aplenty, nightly Muay Thai fights and a busy hum throughout the hawker centre. However, there are equally mid to luxury options for travellers wanting to step away from the busyness and enjoy a base for world-class diving, snorkelling or lazing around. 

The close proximity to Maya Bay—again made famous by The Beach—is especially inviting and a must-visit. We stayed at the Mama Beach Residence, tucked into a corner of the island and just a 10-minute stroll from the main centre. 

It was great value at $120 a night for a unit with a balcony and sweeping bay views. Here you can spend your days lounging under the shade of trees overlooking the bay, enjoying a massage in a beachside cabana, or ordering a cocktail and snacks at the beachside bar. It ticks the boxes for value, location and has an excellent buffet breakfast as well. 

But it’s the staff that make the resort truly memorable. Friendly, welcoming, and always happy to answer any questions. Owner, Angelo, a French national who has lived on